What does the check engine warning light mean?

The engine computer has stored a fault — anything from a loose fuel cap to a misfire or a failing sensor. Steady: drive gently and book a scan this week. Flashing: a misfire is damaging the catalytic converter — slow down and come in now.

What does the oil pressure warning light mean?

The engine is not getting enough oil pressure. Without it, bearings can be destroyed in minutes. Stop as soon as it is safe and switch the engine off. Do not drive on.

What does the charging system warning light mean?

The battery is not being charged — usually the alternator, its belt or a connection. You have whatever charge is left in the battery: switch off what you can and drive straight here, or call us.

What does the brake system warning light mean?

The parking brake is on, the brake fluid is low, or there is a fault in the hydraulics. If the parking brake is off and the light stays on, do not drive: low fluid can mean a leak and a soft pedal.

What does the engine temperature warning light mean?

The engine is overheating — low coolant, a leak, a failed fan or thermostat. Pull over and switch off. Never open a hot radiator cap.

What does the tyre pressure warning light mean?

One or more tyres is at least a quarter below its pressure — often after a cold night, sometimes a puncture. Drive gently to a pump and check all four against the label in the door frame.

What does the abs warning light mean?

The anti-lock system has switched itself off, usually because of a wheel speed sensor. Normal braking still works, but wheels can lock in an emergency stop. Leave extra distance and book it in.

What does the airbag warning light mean?

The airbag system has a fault and may not deploy in a crash. The car drives normally, but the airbags may not work. Book it in soon.

What does the low fuel warning light mean?

Roughly the last tenth of the tank — on most cars 30 to 50 miles. Fine to drive to a filling station. Running dry can damage the fuel pump.

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Check engine

Book this week

The engine computer has stored a fault — anything from a loose fuel cap to a misfire or a failing sensor.

Can I keep driving?: Steady: drive gently and book a scan this week. Flashing: a misfire is damaging the catalytic converter — slow down and come in now.
What to do: Check the fuel cap is tight. We read the code with a scan tool and test before we replace anything.
Usual cost here: $120 – $650

Book a check

Oil pressure

Stop safely

The engine is not getting enough oil pressure. Without it, bearings can be destroyed in minutes.

Can I keep driving?: Stop as soon as it is safe and switch the engine off. Do not drive on.
What to do: Check the level on the dipstick once the engine has cooled. If it is low, top up; if the light stays on, have the car towed in.
Usual cost here: $90 – $1,400

Call or book now

Charging system

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The battery is not being charged — usually the alternator, its belt or a connection.

Can I keep driving?: You have whatever charge is left in the battery: switch off what you can and drive straight here, or call us.
What to do: We test the battery, alternator output and belt together, so you only replace what has failed.
Usual cost here: $180 – $750

Book a check

Brake system

Stop safely

The parking brake is on, the brake fluid is low, or there is a fault in the hydraulics.

Can I keep driving?: If the parking brake is off and the light stays on, do not drive: low fluid can mean a leak and a soft pedal.
What to do: Check the parking brake first. We inspect pads, discs, lines and fluid and show you the measurements.
Usual cost here: $150 – $900

Call or book now

Engine temperature

Stop safely

The engine is overheating — low coolant, a leak, a failed fan or thermostat.

Can I keep driving?: Pull over and switch off. Never open a hot radiator cap.
What to do: Let it cool for half an hour, check the coolant level, and call us. Driving hot can warp the cylinder head.
Usual cost here: $150 – $1,200

Call or book now

Tyre pressure

Book this week

One or more tyres is at least a quarter below its pressure — often after a cold night, sometimes a puncture.

Can I keep driving?: Drive gently to a pump and check all four against the label in the door frame.
What to do: If one keeps going down, we find the leak and plug or patch it properly from the inside.
Usual cost here: Free check – $60

Book a check

ABS

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The anti-lock system has switched itself off, usually because of a wheel speed sensor.

Can I keep driving?: Normal braking still works, but wheels can lock in an emergency stop. Leave extra distance and book it in.
What to do: We read the ABS module and test the sensor and wiring at the wheel it names.
Usual cost here: $120 – $450

Book a check

Airbag

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The airbag system has a fault and may not deploy in a crash.

Can I keep driving?: The car drives normally, but the airbags may not work. Book it in soon.
What to do: Often a seat connector or clock spring. We diagnose with the airbag module connected the safe way.
Usual cost here: $120 – $600

Book a check

Stability control

Keep an eye on it

Flashing briefly: it is working, catching a slide. On steadily: the system has switched off with a fault.

Can I keep driving?: Steady on: drive as if on a wet road and book a check.
What to do: It shares sensors with the ABS, so we check both together.
Usual cost here: $120 – $450

Book a check

Low fuel

Keep an eye on it

Roughly the last tenth of the tank — on most cars 30 to 50 miles.

Can I keep driving?: Fine to drive to a filling station. Running dry can damage the fuel pump.
What to do: Nothing for us to fix — but if the gauge reads wrong, the sender may be failing.

28 years on the same corner.